Renovating listed period homes can be so rewarding but can also be complicated and challenging. I’ve worked on numerous period homes and every home offers up new challenges. However, there are common themes that come up time and time again. I’ve outlined some tips to consider if you are about to embark on a renovation project.
Put together a team of specialists
Make sure that you put together your team right from the beginning. A common mistake is to just appoint an architect and then bring in the other specialists later. Bring an interior designer in at the same time as the architect, so that they can work alongside each other to consider every element of your home’s design. You can then consider the wider team that you need and draw on their network.
A heritage or historic building consultant should be a core part of the team. They can assess the historical significance of various elements of your property and advise on how to preserve and restore them. They can also help document the building’s history, which is often needed as part of the planning permission process. And most importantly, they can act as sounding board to advise on whether the proposed ideas are sympathetic to the history of the house (and therefore likely to be approved by the council).
Look for builder contractor who specialises in historic building restoration and make sure you get recommendations (normally from your architect). They should be familiar with the challenges of working on listed properties and offer ideas that comply with conservation guidelines. Ask to go and see a previous project they have recently worked on, so that you can see the standard of their conservation work.
Another key member of your team should be a quantity surveyor. An architect primarily focuses on the design and planning of buildings and spaces, whilst a quantity surveyor specialises in managing the costs of the project. However, many larger architecture practices have in-house surveyors. Not only can the surveyor provide accurate cost estimates but they can also manage and track the budget. They will also prepare and manage the contract with your contractor and then value the work done to ensure the payments you are being asked for are fair. If your architect does not have an in-house surveyor, you can appoint an independent surveyor to work with your builder.
Allow lots of time for planning and permissions
Allow at least a year to engage an architect, develop the designs, secure planning permission and get sign off for any other listed building consents. As a general guideline an architect will start with the master plan and come up with conceptual sketches and drawings to discuss with you. They will then need time to gather together other pieces of documentation which will give you the best possible chance of securing planning permission. This may include a report from a heritage consultant, who will give an independent view on whether the proposed designs are likely to be approved. You are also likely to need time to undertake surveys, such as bat and newt surveys for instance. Make sure you also budget for these in your overall project budget as they can really add up.
As general guideline, the pre app process takes around 6 weeks. This is an informal discussion with the conservation officer at the council to get some feedback on initial designs. If this goes well, then the more formal planning permission goes in. This normally takes around 3 months. In my experience it is never this quick! Generally, there is some back-and-forth discussions with the conservation officer, with the architect making some compromises to the original design. This can go on for months and very much depends on your local conservation officer.
Don’t be surprised by how many elements need consent
Conservation officers from local planning departments are responsible for overseeing the application of regulations. They can provide advice on materials, techniques, and methods that are best suited for preserving the property’s historical features. They will also set out detailed conditions and request further information of your plans to replace Like for Like, along with samples. All of which needs to be signed off before you proceed. Samples may include brick layouts, roof tiles and other materials. You will also need to secure agreement for anything that affects the original fabric of the building, such as scribing in wires for wall lights. In this recent project we had to secure permission for wall lights.
Keep a photographic record of the state the house was in before building work commenced. You may need this to prove that you have not removed historical materials from the house.
Budget wisely
First of all, don’t attempt the tender process yourself. One of the most common mistakes I see is when clients use the architect for planning and then decide to do the rest themselves. Preparing a tender is a complex and time-consuming process but if done correctly you’ll have much better visibility of your costs. The architect should work closely with your interior designer to fully specify the work, including detailed drawings, specifications and schedules. The quantity surveyor will prepare a very detailed specification of work for the contractor to quote on and then analyse the responses.
Set aside a contingency fund of up to 20% of the total budget, to cover unexpected issues that arise. Period properties often reveal hidden problems, such as structural issues or outdated wiring, which can impact the overall cost. These issues don’t necessarily get picked up in your survey as they are well hidden underneath floorboards and walls!
Expected the unexpected
After the strip out stage of your renovation, there is likely to be a set of unexpected issues that crop up. You won’t know what lies beneath until the build actually starts! Allow yourself some time in your overall project timeline to work through these issues with your team.
Typically issues I’ve come across recently include:
- Weaknesses in the structure – a common problem discovered during strip out is a lack of strong joists. So you can often find that the floor is very weak and won’t withstand heavy weight. In my most recent project it has meant that the floor wasn’t even strong enough to hold a bath. These issues can normally be overcome with advice from a structural engineer. But again, this all takes time to sort out and can delay a project
- A lack of floor space to hide pipework – in modern houses you can hide pipes under the floorboards. However, old houses often don’t have enough space for those pipes, which means you have pipes running around the walls (and therefore some unslightly boxing in). Bathrooms are the most affected, so plans you may draw up with a bathroom designer will then need adjusting
- Weak plumbing and water pressure – almost every house I’ve worked on has had terrible water pressure and outdated pipework. Bear in mind that your water pressure will also be most affected by the overall water pressure coming into the house from the mains. This will affect the type of showers and taps you use, as some fittings are not suitable for low pressures. So always check with your plumber before investing in fittings. Some brands work better than others for low pressure
- Uneven floors – old wood floors are often on a slope and may need to be evened out (if that’s allowed). If you have an original oak floor, for instance, it will need to be retained and restored rather than replaced. Freestanding furniture, such as wardrobes, can be a problem on slopey floors, so you may need to invest in bespoke joinery
- Outdated electrical wiring – electrical wiring often doesn’t meet modern safety standards and it can be costly but necessary to update. Another common problem is the lack of amperage or circuits in the house. These can easily become overloaded with modern electrical appliances. So, plan well ahead before renovating your kitchen, for instance, as that may have quite a few appliances that are power hungry. Electric Agas often need to be put on their own electrical circuit
- The cost and mess of beam restoration –I regularly see houses with thick black tutor paint on beams, which makes a house feel extremely gloomy. Taking beams back to a more natural finish is totally transformational and I would always recommend it. The question is then which approach you take. Sandblasting may be required if the paint is really thick but do bear in mind that the surrounding ceiling or wall could be heavily damaged during the process. It is also incredibly noisy and messy, leaving a thick layer of fine sand particles over the entire house. Iceblasting is another slightly kinder option but doesn’t always take away every single part of the tudor black paint. So get a specialist’s advice as it very much depends on the state of your beams.
Despite all of these challenges, don’t lose sight of why you bought your home. These old houses have so much character and beauty. It will always be worth bring these beautiful houses back to life. If you would like help working through this process do get in touch. Do also have a read of one of my previous articles which gives more tips on how to decorate a period home.
